Fabio Trabocchi on Fiamma’s Closing
By Frank Bruni
Shortly after the news broke today that the restaurant Fiamma had been shut for good, I spoke on the phone with its chef, Fabio Trabocchi. He said that the restaurant had been crippled by the economic slowdown, and that he feared that Fiamma wouldn’t be the last prominent closing in the months ahead.
“I wish I could tell you otherwise, and I don’t mean to be pessimistic,” said Mr. Trabocchi, 34, who is now out of work. “But there are some tough conditions ahead, and over the next months it’s going to get worse rather than better.”
“Some places are seeing a 40 percent drop-off in business,” he said. “These are probably the most difficult economic times of our life, at least of my generation.”
At Fiamma, he said, the decline in business from the third to the fourth quarters of 2008 was between 25 and 30 percent. In early January, a typically slow month, the situation began to deteriorate further, he said.
“There is a breaking point,” he said, noting the impossibility of making enough of the adjustments necessary for a restaurant with plummeting revenues to stay in business. “If you fall below certain numbers, you’re taking out the soul of the restaurant itself.”
Fiamma was owned by BR Guest Restaurants, which also closed several of its other restaurants today: Ruby Foo’s and Level V in Manhattan, and Blue Water Grill in Chicago.
Mr. Trabocchi said that many restaurants of Fiamma’s three-star caliber and high price point are, or will be, tweaking their menus and fashioning special deals. Over recent months, he said, Fiamma had introduced new a la carte pasta dishes in the $18 to $20 range that were simpler and more straightforward than much of the fare the restaurant had been serving to that point.
He called these dishes “comfort food, old-time Italian favorites,” including a version of bucatini amatriciana and a dish of fresh pasta with roasted tomatoes, grilled peppers and ricotta.
But these changes didn’t help enough.
Mr. Trabocchi said he doesn’t know what he’ll do next, or whether he’ll be able to stay in New York, where he moved his wife and two children, now 5 and 7, from the Washington, D.C., area last June. He bought an apartment on the Upper East Side, where his children are in school.
In saying he would be “open to anything,” he was acknowledging that many accomplished chefs like him may not be able, in the current economic climate, to work with ingredients as expensive as they once did, or to prepare the kind of elaborate, elegant food they strived to master.
That’s not where the market is headed, he said.
“To be very honest with you, there will be less and less opportunity for chefs to cook what they want,” he said. “The price point needs to be lower. People need to feel they can come back.”
“Everyone’s going to have to be more recession-friendly.”
http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/200...iammas-closing/Go with a true Tuscan chef, instead of JGV................be alot cheaper Bobby!!